Everyone says go to Albania for the beaches. I say sit in hot water in the mountains instead. Tourist numbers have almost doubled since 2019, but the natural hot springs — like Benja Thermal Baths (Llixhat e Bënjës) — are still under the radar. Don’t expect fluffy bathrobes or poolside lattes. The reward for the effort is better: a warm pool, a cold river, and a canyon that makes the real world disappear.
Benja thermal baths: What to expect
The road from Përmet narrows, and potholes test your reactions as you approach Benja. The trailhead car park offers a tantalizing glimpse of the 18th-century Ottoman-era Kadiut Bridge spanning the deep walls of the Lengarica Canyon. A short, easy hike with the Nemërçka Mountains as a backdrop brings you to the main pools, and the view of the Kadiut Bridge makes the short hike feel worth it.
The first dip can overwhelm. The warm water and sulfurous smell might surprise first-timers. Thankfully, it’s a much gentler introduction than Utah’s Stinking Springs. A quick dip in the refreshingly cold river washes the smell right off. In Utah, it can linger. Stick with it in any case. Locals swear by it to ease aching joints, and the recommended 20-30 minute soak, followed by a plunge into the river, will have you feeling brand new.
- Distance from Përmet: 14km via asphalt road (includes bonus potholes)
- Water temperature: mid-20s to low-30s °C
- Main pools: 200–300m from the car park (€2 entry), an easy walk
- Secluded upstream pools: 1.5km over uneven terrain, with river crossings and some scrambling
- Best season: spring or autumn, to dodge the summer crowds
- Facilities: None. Bring water, snacks, water shoes, and a towel
- Swimwear: Required — this is a public, family-friendly spot, and locals expect it.
- Wheelchair access: Not suitable for wheelchairs or limited mobility
- Less crowded: Compared with Europe’s more famous spa destinations.
The main pools get very busy in July and August. This is when hiking deep into the canyon pays handsomely. It’s not a casual detour. Sturdy shoes are necessary, and shallow river crossings over slick rocks are part of the fun.
Benja vs. Elbasan: Which hot spring suits you?
If Benja sounds like a bit much (or you fancy a soak without the hike), Llixhat e Elbasanit near Elbasan offers a more traditional, developed thermal bath experience. Here’s how they compare:
| Benja Thermal Baths (Përmet) | Llixhat e Elbasanit (Elbasan) | |
| Entry cost | €2 (main pools) | Free pools; paid spa packages from ~€10–15 |
| Facilities | None — bring everything | Hotels, indoor pools, mud therapy, treatments |
| Effort | Easy walk to main pools; 1.5km scramble to upstream pools | No hiking — drive up and walk in |
| Setting | River canyon under an Ottoman bridge | Developed spa town, less scenic |
| Crowds | Busy July–August; quiet upstream | Steady but spread across hotels |
| Best for | Adventurous soakers after wild scenery | Travelers wanting comfort and treatments |
Staying connected: Sorting a SIM card for Albania
Most of Albania has widespread 4G coverage, and 5G is being rolled out in major towns and cities. Përmet is no exception, so day-to-day connectivity in town isn’t an issue. But the moment you leave your guesthouse Wi-Fi, you’re relying on mobile data — and you’ll want it. Google Maps is your best defense against the potholed back road to Benja, and it earns its keep again when you’re checking whether that distant car park is the one with the €2 entry.
Coverage thins out inside Lengarica Canyon itself, so if you’re hiking to the upstream pools, download your offline maps in advance. (See above: steep canyon walls, faint trail, patchy signal. You’ll thank yourself.)
The savvy traveler also knows that roaming on your home plan can trigger frankly outrageous charges, so sorting a SIM card for Albania before you fly is the move. An eSIM from Saily covers you from the moment you land — no hunting for a phone shop in Tirana, no fiddling with a tiny plastic card in a rental car park. Set it up at home, land, and go.
